Having read the late Patrick Leigh Fermor’s travel book Mani: Travels in the Southern
Peloponnese, I jumped at the chance of visiting his house in Kardamyli. The book is a glorious, rambling account of the rugged people and terrain of this very dry part of the Greek mainland, with constant digressions into archaic learning.
I spoke to his housekeeper, Elpida, who agreed to cook me the moussaka loved by the great man. She...
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