In the oppressive metropolis of Tokyo, the Yasukuni shrine is an oasis of calm. Constructed in 1869 in the traditional Japanese style, it lies at the end of a long, leafy pedestrian approach, the site dotted with the cherry trees so beloved of the city’s population.
The bridge which leads to the shrine takes visitors past the entrance to Tokyo’s Science Museum and National Archives. To access Yasukuni, in other words, it is necessary...
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