Chenin blanc is a chameleon grape, a Jekyll and Hyde character that does not just live a double life, but exhibits multiple personalities – some good, some dubious, some sublime. What is a bulking agent for some is, for others, a fine wine ready to take its place at the top table.
In chenin’s homeland of the Loire Valley, it can appear as sweet, dry and sparkling wines. In three or four appellations it is...
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