Japanese cocktail house is small but perfectly formed

Bonsai Bar

17 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2

01-5267701, thebonsaibar.com

Chef: Dylan McGrath

I saw a Sex on the Beach on a cocktail menu recently. No, really – that sickly-sweet concoction that we all ordered in nightclubs (or ‘niteclubs’, to give them their proper historical spelling) when we were 17 is apparently still a thing in some parts of the country.

Now don’t get me wrong, I’m no drink snob. But I’m ...