The idea of terroir is one of the dividing lines in wine. In many New World countries, but especially Australia, from the 1960s onwards it became a pariah idea. It was comprehensively attacked in academic circles by the top names such as Dr Brian Croser, scientist and head of winemaking at giant Thomas Hardy and later Petaluma.
Croser is renowned for taking a hard-nosed and unromantic view of winemaking. His pan-global analysis often involves digging...
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