Two elderly men in Serbian army caps, playing chess at a picnic table, are so absorbed in their game that they barely glance up when formations of deafening F16s and Hornet fighter jets streak across the noon sky, followed by military helicopters, whose choppers catch the fading plumes of emissions.
It’s a symbolic moment here above Belgrade’s formidable Kalemegdan fortress, which dominates the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, looking out over one...
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