In a room on South Great George’s Street in Dublin city centre, I’m eating one of the best things I’ve tasted in ages. It’s a mushroom. And that’s pretty much it.
There’s no long list of extra ingredients; no foams, no gels, no sauces. It’s just a shiitake mushroom that’s been coated with olive oil and blowtorched till it’s as hot as hell. In the...
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