Monday June 1, 2020

Dylan McGrath: Don’t look back

Just six years after his Michelin-starred Mint had to close its doors, Dylan McGrath is about to open his third new restaurant since 2011 – and it has a distinctly Japanese flavouring. Words: Gillian Nelis. Pictures: Fergal Ward.

Gillian Nelis

Managing Editor

9th May, 2015
Dylan McGrath: ‘There’ll never be another Mint; it was of its time. But I wouldn’t say no to expressing myself again in a high gastronomic way’

In a room on South Great George’s Street in Dublin city centre, I’m eating one of the best things I’ve tasted in ages. It’s a mushroom. And that’s pretty much it.

There’s no long list of extra ingredients; no foams, no gels, no sauces. It’s just a shiitake mushroom that’s been coated with olive oil and blowtorched till it’s as hot as hell. In the...

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