Great cocktail making isn’t a textbook affair, but instead something of a hedonistic art. The thought occurred to me many years ago while I was sitting in the Criterion Bar in London. The barman placed on the counter a vivid cocktail in a V-shaped martini glass. It was 70 per cent orange on top and 30 per cent red, in the apex of the V. He gave it a tiny stir to make the red...
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