An Indian tableau

Holy temples, finest pashminas, hair-raising road trips and one-horned rhinos: India provides a bright and exhilarating welcome to all visitors

8th January, 2017
An Indian tableau
The Bara Imambara Palace in Lucknow

‘There are no traffic rules here and if you try keeping any you’re in trouble; what you need is a loud horn, good brakes and good luck,” shouts Kamal Kapur, now merrily swerving to avoid the dodgems of rickshaws, wandering cows, Kamikaze buses and darting pedestrians in India’s oldest and holiest city.

A gleaming white sedan car is parked outside his homestay villa with a driver on permanent standby....

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