‘There are no traffic rules here and if you try keeping any you’re in trouble; what you need is a loud horn, good brakes and good luck,” shouts Kamal Kapur, now merrily swerving to avoid the dodgems of rickshaws, wandering cows, Kamikaze buses and darting pedestrians in India’s oldest and holiest city.
A gleaming white sedan car is parked outside his homestay villa with a driver on permanent standby....
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