Freshly churned butter slathered over new potatoes, mashed up with leeks, scallions or wild garlic. Gooseberries, fraughans or wild blueberries swimming in fresh cream and sugar, washed down with freshly pressed apples, or porter, and followed by games of rounders and leapfrog. Such activities marked the time of harvest, or lughnasa, of yore. Now, with so few of us tied to the land, those rituals have fallen away. Yet there is a lot to be...
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