Monday May 25, 2020

A natural wonder of the Lagan

Simplicity is the watchword at Ox in Belfast, where a local chef and a French maitre d’ have created the country’s most talked-about restaurant – with not a foraged ingredient in sight. Words: Alex Meehan

15th February, 2015
Sous chef Gareth McCaughey, chef de partie James Agnew and head chef Stevie Toman plating up at Ox

Ask five food critics to choose their favourite place to eat in Ireland, and you’ll get at least six opinions. Critics take an almost perverse level of pride in being the one to identify the next big thing, or in being the outlier providing the contrarian view. But on the subject of one restaurant, there is pretty much unanimous agreement.

Ox in Belfast opened almost two years ago, and has been raved about...

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