Monday June 1, 2020

A glass from the past

War, pestilence, and the uprooting of the peasant winemaking class could not completely eradicate the aligoté grape from Burgundy

8th November, 2015
4
It is commercial suicide to grow alligoté when pinot noir or chardonnay could be grown instead – and yet some French winemakers have kept the old tradition alive

If you strike up a friendship with a Burgundy winemaker, eventually the point will come when they will say: “Wait there, I have something special for you.”

As the winemaker disappears into their underground cellar, you may think that they are going to return with a beloved 1960s cuvée, a pre-World War II giant or a 100-point wine. And you might be right – but, in my experience, in the main you will...

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