Monday June 1, 2020

A glass from the past

War, pestilence, and the uprooting of the peasant winemaking class could not completely eradicate the aligoté grape from Burgundy

8th November, 2015
It is commercial suicide to grow alligoté when pinot noir or chardonnay could be grown instead – and yet some French winemakers have kept the old tradition alive

If you strike up a friendship with a Burgundy winemaker, eventually the point will come when they will say: “Wait there, I have something special for you.”

As the winemaker disappears into their underground cellar, you may think that they are going to return with a beloved 1960s cuvée, a pre-World War II giant or a 100-point wine. And you might be right – but, in my experience, in the main you will...

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