Iona, Chardonnay, Elgin, South Africa 2013, €23.50, M&S (91)
This chardonnay is an unashamed homage to the heartlands of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or (think Meursault). It is all about honey, crispy rasher rind, hazelnut and toasted brioche opulence. The incoming 2013 vintage is superb, but keep an eye out for 2011 too.
The secret here is the cool climate. Iona’s owner, Andrew Gunn, arrived in 1997 from Scotland. In Elgin,...
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