Ca dei Frati Lugana, I Frati, Lugano, Italy 2012, €20.95, The Corkscrew, Chatham Street, Dublin 2, thecorkscrew.ie and good independents (91)
The Po Valley is the economic heartland of Italy. The astonishing heat means that reining in alcohol levels, rather than ripening grapes, is the problem here. And yet, in the heart of the region adjacent to one of the heftiest red wines of all, Amarone, we find a subtle, gloriously refreshing white wine, Lugano....
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