Wine (finally) fit for an Empire

Despite its illustrious history, a devastating scandal in the 1980s took Austrian wine off our shelves. Now it’s back

The wine-growing region of Wagram in Austria produces ambitious red wines

It turns out you can indeed have too much of a good thing.

For around 4,000 years, Austria and the Danube have been the central roundabout of the European continent. You can pass from the Alps, the Hungarian plains, the German forests and the French mountains to reach anywhere, from Rome to the North Sea to the Adriatic and the Middle East.

It is no surprise that one of the largest and wealthiest ...