Up here, it’s delightfully different

The Village Tavern, Mountcharles Co Donegal, 074-9735622 villagetavern.ie, Chef: Enda O’Rourke

At the Village Tavern, chef Enda O’Rourke champions local producers – he even has their photos on the walls Clive Wasson

On a rainy Bank Holiday Monday, a table of American tourists are finishing their lunch in the Village Tavern in Mountcharles. They are off to find the ancestral home of one of their group with the aid of a map drawn by one of the waitresses – when she’d heard their surname, she had enlisted the help of some locals to pinpoint exactly where they should go.

It’s the first time that any ...