To try, buy and put by

To try, buy and put by
German wine has been transformed over the last decade or so, with savoury reds and lean, pure styles of white dominant again, and an emphasis on natural and organic growing. One huge and brilliant area of German wine remains just out of reach, howeve: their sekts, or sparkling wines. Vast oceans are made and consumed in Germany, but little is exported. This may be the way forward: a very dry style, with fabulous acidity that blows all but champagne out of the water. This one, from Pfalz growers Von Winning is superb, and well worth trying.

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