To Try, Buy And Put By

TO TRY: Pine Ridge Vineyards, Dijon Clone Chardonnay, Carneros, California 2013, €36 from Mitchell and Son and online at mitchellandson.com (92)

It may be a form of contemporary heresy, but here goes: barrel ageing can be a delight when done well. It softens, adds a little gloss and a touch of generous toasty notes to a good wine. Thankfully, a few hardy souls, as here, remain true to fine oak ageing. This example ...