To try, buy and put by

TO TRY: Craggy Range Kidnappers’ Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay 2013, €27.95, from Searsons Wine Merchants, Monkstown, Co Dublin, on searsons.com and from independent wine shops and off-licences nationwide (92)

All three wines today are made from the chardonnay grape from three different wine-making nations across the globe, showing flexibility in three varying styles. Unfortunately, this flexible grape is now often seen as too popular, too easy, too enjoyable. To which we ask: why does ...