To try, buy and put by

TO TRY: Domaine Rolet, Père et Fils, Chardonnay, AC Arbois, Jura 2015, €25.95 from Green Man Wines, Terenure; 64 Wines, Glasthule and at independent off-licences and wine shops nationwide (92)

The Jura is one of those brilliant Old World wine regions that exist as a direct result of difficult geography and the vagaries of history. If it did not exist, it is unlikely that anyone would seek out its high isolated slopes as ...