Three to try

Three to try
All three wines this week are classic icons, maybe even wine clichés. Yet you only become a wine cliché by fulfilling a need and usually doing it well. I feel all three of these wines have become secret classics, and we wine lovers overlook their unpretentious joys to our detriment. First up is Tio Pepe Fino Sherry, made from well-sourced Palomino. The wine here is tart, crisp and lip-smacking dry. Try it with salted, just warm, pan-fried almonds: it’s a revelation.

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