There’s smoke at Edo – but the flavours lack fire

It’s baffling to talk so much about your wonderful charcoal oven – which you presumably have paid a pretty penny for - then pay so little attention to the pricey steak you cook on it

Edo on Belfast’s Upper Queen Street: the food was disappointing and inconsistent, despite clearly having some very skilled chefs at work

Edo

3 Capital House,

Unit 2 Upper Queen Street, Belfast

0028-9031054, edorestaurant.co.uk

Chef: Jonny Elliott

I’d been scrolling through Belfast restaurant menus for around half an hour – there really are some great places to eat in that city these days – when a line on the website of Edo stopped me in my tracks.

“We fill her with chunks of peat and pear and applewood,” it read, “which gives us an incredible ...