Sea spray and stillness
In which our correspondent Nadine O’Regan experiences the all-consumingly physical, beautifully mind-emptying qualities of surfing, then relaxes her battered bones at a five-star hotel - and reveals why you should do this too
‘My little princess, are you ready to die?”
My surf instructor Miguel grins. He’s holding onto my board as I’m lying flat on top of it, stomach down, but wriggling up ever higher, so my toes are in just ...
