Sauvignon Blanc, the once and future king

Sauvignon Blanc has been the most consistent bestselling white wine varietal over the last decade. And, perhaps like Manchester United, the Williams sisters and Tom Cruise, the years of success seem to me to have delivered an almost irrational desire to see Sauvignon Blanc fail.

In wine, the ill will towards Sauvignon Blanc is largely focused on the boredom factor, its near-universal availability and, most recently, its taste profile, which is seen alternatively as too...