Saba earns its stripes again, in style

Business was already brisk, and with food this reliable, I can’t say I’m surprised

Saba: faultless service and consummate food Picture: Maura Hickey

Saba

22 Upper Baggot Street, Dublin 4

01-5631999, sabadublin.com

Chef: Taweesak Trakoolwattana

I was an hour into my dinner at the new Saba on Baggot Street when I finally remembered where the room reminded me off – Dobbins, the restaurant on nearby Stephen’s Lane.

If you frequented Dobbins in the Tiger years, you’ll remember it as a place where time had a tendency to stand still. Generally, a trip there went like this: ...