The old king of Italian wine

Barolo used to rule the roost before it fell out of favour. Could its time be coming again?

Nebbiolo grapes, which are used to make the newly-fashionable Barolo wine Pic: Getty

Until the 1980s, the name Barolo was as famous as Rioja, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Saint-Émilion or Pomerol in Ireland, and indeed around the entire wine world.

The word Barolo meant a huge, powerful, dark and tannic wine that was expensive and loved by the super-wealthy and the nobility of Europe. It was a brilliant wine to give or receive as a gift, no explanation of its high regard was necessary. If someone gave you a ...