No shame in chenin

No shame in chenin View Gallery
The Loire Valley: home of chenin blanc. Picture: Getty

Chenin blanc has suffered from being associated with South African apartheid and cheaper blended wines – but it is now on the road to rehabilitation in its original home, the Loire.

Chenin blanc is a chameleon grape, a Jekyll and Hyde character that does not just live a double life, but exhibits multiple personalities – some good, some dubious, some sublime. What is a bulking agent for some is, for others, a fine wine ready to take its place at the top table.

In chenin’s homeland of the Loire Valley, it can appear as sweet, dry and sparkling wines. In three or four appellations it is considered...

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