No shame in chenin

Chenin blanc has suffered from being associated with South African apartheid and cheaper blended wines – but it is now on the road to rehabilitation in its original home, the Loire.

The Loire Valley: home of chenin blanc. Picture: Getty

Chenin blanc is a chameleon grape, a Jekyll and Hyde character that does not just live a double life, but exhibits multiple personalities – some good, some dubious, some sublime. What ...