Mountains, mists and Barolo

The wineries of the Po valley fell out of fashion over the last few decades, and winemakers there have been forced to choose between following fashion and sticking rigidly to sacred doctrines

The vineyards of the Piedmont region in the north of Italy

The Piedmont region of north-eastern Italy created the modern united Italian state, an action for which the rest of Italy has yet to forgive them. Piedmont is regarded as the stern, slightly aloof, commerce-obsessed north, which, along with its fellow Po Valley occupants, contrast with the pragmatic deal-makers of the Roman and Florentine middle, and the shoulder-shrugging south.

Piedmont today stretches from the French border just to the east of Nice and runs ...