Making Amarone great again

Making Amarone great again
Wine made with significant human intervention can be a dazzling joy

Unashamedly complex and technical, the northern Italian wine Amarone is a living rebuke to the practices of low-intervention winemaking

For decades, the king of big, opulent red wine for the winter festivities was Amarone, the enigmatic and stylish northern Italian superstar. It played on the same very high-quality fields as Bordeaux wines such as St-Émilion, Spain’s hefty Rioja and above all, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

When the New World wines from Australia, California and latterly Argentina began to offer the same kind of heft and opulence for matching or cheaper prices, sales of all...

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