A kitchen full of ambition in Malahide
Caffrey never lets technique dominate at the expense of flavour
Old Street Restaurant
Old Street, Malahide, Co Dublin
01-8455614, oldstreet.ie
Chef: Fergus Caffrey
It was a hard ould station, being a vegetarian in Ireland in the 2000s. I wasn’t one, but because my husband was, I got a pretty good insight into the experience.
The best-case scenario back then was that you’d be offered either a spinach and ricotta cannelloni, or a goat’s cheese tart – he ate enough of both of those ...
