Grill: The first of the summer wine

Raise a glass to sunny afternoons and warm evenings with Tomás Clancy’s top ten barbecue wines

The pleasures of the barbecue are not really about the outdoors, or even the summer. They are about abandoning the security of the kitchen and embracing the random outcomes of offering up our food to the flames, the scorching metal or the smouldering charcoal.

The resulting tastes are unpredictable and wildly varied, from smoky to charred to burnt, making a barbecue the perfect time to throw caution to the wind when it comes ...