The first of the summer wine

The word “seasonality” is lingua franca at every ambitious restaurant, and has been for more than a decade. In reality, however, we have always changed our foods with the seasons.

Summer meals have always been lighter and more varied fare, and accompanying wines are equally lighter, livelier and filled with sunshine. The summer also brings holidays, weddings, picnics and back garden conviviality, from barbecues to long Sunday lunches.

Here is my guide to the ...