Fine fare at the king of Dublin wine bars

Ely Wine Bar: the 24-year-old restaurant is thriving, especially after its recent revamp Pic: Fergal Phillips

Ely Wine Bar

22 Ely Place, Dublin 2

01-6768986, elywinebar.ie

Chef: Ryan Stringer

Twenty years ago, when Erik and Michelle Robson opened Ely just off St Stephen’s Green in Dublin city centre, I was 24 and had very, very cheap tastes when it came to wine.

So did my then flatmate, handily, and one or the other of us would regularly pick up “a bottle of that Spanish stuff, you know, the Compo ...