Farmhill: Something’s stirring in the suburbs

The neighbourhood restaurant is one of the nicest trends in recent times

Farmhill in Goatstown, Dublin: a good example of a decent neighbourhood restaurantPicture: Feargal Ward

Farmhill, 9 Farmhill Road

Goatstown, Dublin 14

01-4413871, farmhill.ie

Chef: Michelle Wickham

My late grandmother had a lot in common with May Mole, grandmother of Adrian Mole, that wonderful comic creation of the late British author Sue Townsend. May, Adrian tells us, was a plain cook who regarded eating as a gross indulgence.

“It was her proud boast that she had never eaten in a proper restaurant in her life,” he says. “She ...