Wine: The delights of the dark side

Pomerol of Bordeaux will never be a huge commercial player, but it remains a shining star in the French wine firmament

The well-ventilated plateau in Pomerol creates perfect growing conditions for merlot

There is one great red wine hidden in plain sight, in Bordeaux. That wine is Pomerol.

First, the geography. The Pomerol wine region is located on the eastern bank of the river Gironde, and sits close to the Gironde’s mighty parent river, the Dordogne.

The major port on the Dordogne river that connects the centre of France with Bordeaux is Libourne, just five minutes’ drive from Pomerol.

Before the railways arrived, wine was ...