Circa of friends serves up a sublime meal

The menu at Circa would make an Irish patriot out of Arlene Foster, or at least it would during the time she’s eating here

Circa in Terenure North, Dublin 6: the founders are working their socks off to realise their dream Pic: Fergal Phillips

Circa

90 Terenure North, Dublin 6

01-5342644, restaurantcirca.com

Chef: Gareth Naughton

In the buzzy, busy dining room in Circa, I’m engaging in the culinary equivalent of moving overseas and suddenly developing a grá mór for the Furey Brothers.

I’m never slow to wax lyrical about great Irish food, but here I’m laying it on with a shovel for an American friend who’s visiting from his long-adopted home of Tokyo.

“Taste that butter, now ...