The bright side of sweet Sauternes

Sauternes has been stigmatised as a dessert wine, but now it’s time for a revival

Château d’Yquem in Sauternes: constructed in the 15th century Getty

The wines of Sauternes were once the most expensive and sought-after in the world. The Holy Roman Emperor, endless popes, Louis XV and, most famously, US president Thomas Jefferson all adored the plush white wines of the rolling vineyards just south of Bordeaux.

These adored wines were sweet – today a byword for unpopularity largely because of the unfair casting of such wines as dessert wines, and because our tastes have turned towards ...