The brief rise and long fall of Puglia

Marketing missteps saw Puglia in southern Italy lose its cachet, but its best wines are still well worth quaffing

Negroamaro is the dominant grape in Puglia, producing solid, rustic red and sweet wines

Travelling through Puglia, the heel in Italy’s boot shape, two things quickly strike the Irish visitor. First, it is unimaginably hot. Secondly, there is a strange familiarity to parts of the ancient landscape.

The castles of Puglia seem particularly familiar. Unlike Templar castles or ornate renaissance Italian castles, these are grey, slab-sided and austere totems of power.

A closer look reveals square towers, high walls and plenty of archery windows. They look like ...