The ancient charms of Brunello di Montalcino

The proudly traditionalist Biondi-Santi wines are finally coming into their own, as wine lovers increasingly seek authenticity and natural production methods

Jacopo Biondi-Santi tends his vines in Montalcino

‘Our day will come’ is not a phrase you often hear applied to wine, but it is one that best describes Italian wine in general, and very specifically the wines of Brunello di Montalcino, particularly those of Montalcino-founding and finest estate Biondi-Santi, which most recently has come into its own.

Despite the fact that the Romans grew grapes for over 2,000 years and the Italian peninsula itself has continued to make wine in ...