A Gulf in class

A Gulf in class View Gallery
The palace grand pool at the One & Only Royal Mirage

Dubai is known for glamorous glitz and blaring bling, but you can also recharge your batteries peacefully in this most eminent of emirates

Should I ever be asked to choose the moment in my adult life when I was cleanest – unlikely, I know – I won’t hesitate before answering. That moment came last month, emerging from a hammam chamber in Dubai.

I’d entered the hammam an hour earlier, not knowing quite what to expect, and floated out afterwards wishing that someone would build one around the corner from me, and fast.

In the changing rooms, I’d been...

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