101 Great Irish Restaurants: Leinster

KILDARE

Canteen, Celbridge

In this cleanly decorated, contemporary room, chef James Sheridan serves up delicious, indulgent dishes like a quail and foie gras pithivier, and wild brill with buckwheat, violet artichokes, burnt apple purée and a cider sauce.

His food presents a modern take on classic flavour combinations while, front of house, his partner Soizic Humbert runs the dining room with calm efficiency. Lunch in Canteen on Saturday either preceded or followed ...