Ready, Steady, reset

Aoife Carrigy meets Niall O’Sullivan, who has swapped a busy restaurant on St Stephen’s Green for the historic Killruddery House and Gardens in Wicklow

Niall O’Sullivan, chef at Kilruddery House and Gardens: ‘If lockdown taught us anything, it’s to slow down’. Picture: Barry Cronin

“If lockdown taught us anything, it’s to slow down.” So says Niall O’Sullivan, the Dublin-born chef who led the kitchen at Bang Restaurant off St Stephen’s Green for four happy years before “the dreaded food boxes” caused him to rethink everything.

“It became about processing food, and there was a disconnection. I’ve never not wanted to cook in all the years I’ve been doing it. I love it, and I love the noise and the ...