In The Kitchen

Karl Whelan: ‘The set-up here means we have to adapt, adapt and adapt some more’

The head chef at Saltwater Grocery is putting his years of experience to work in a tiny space in the Dublin suburbs

Karl Whelan in Saltwater Grocery: “I have a deep well of ideas. I churn out too many of them.” Picture: Fergal Phillips

When significant things are happening in Irish food, Karl Whelan never seems to be too far away from the action.

Following a stint cooking at the two Michelin-starred Le Meurice in France, Whelan returned to Dublin and cooked at Chapter One with Ross Lewis, a stint which included working on the state dinner for the visit of Queen Elizabeth II in 2011.

He was head chef at Dylan McGrath’s Fade Street Social when it opened ...