Gillian Nelis on dining out: Orwell Road takes us from the sublime to the dirty delicious

Promising young chef Dan Hannigan has taken a quantum leap forward with food that is exciting, precise and full of flavour

‘The room is as stylish as you’d expect from the Bereens . . . They may be more than a few years in the game, but they’ve still got that magic touch, and this partnership with Hannigan is positively spellbinding.’ Picture: Fergal Phillips

In Orwell Road, the new restaurant on, er, Orwell Road in Dublin 6, I am experiencing what can only be described as a serious dose of wine envy.

At the table next to us, Marc Bereen is uncorking a bottle of Irish winemaker Róisín Curley’s 2018 Saint-Romain Chardonnay (€95) for a couple who clearly know how to make the best of a rainy Sunday. “You can bring me back here and buy me a bottle ...