Gillian Nelis on dining out: Orwell Road takes us from the sublime to the dirty delicious

Promising young chef Dan Hannigan has taken a quantum leap forward with food that is exciting, precise and full of flavour

‘The room is as stylish as you’d expect from the Bereens . . . They may be more than a few years in the game, but they’ve still got that magic touch, and this partnership with Hannigan is positively spellbinding.’ Picture: Fergal Phillips