Restaurant Review

Gillian Nelis: Fish shop by day, fabulous food by night

Niall Sabongi’s Saltwater Grocery in Terenure leads a double life from Thursdays to Saturdays, and the culinary results are spectacular

Saltwater Grocery, Terenure, Dublin 6W: dishes that are vibrant, full of flavour and perfectly sized. Picture: Fergal Phillips

A colleague has developed what I’m sure he’ll forgive me for describing as a bit of an obsession with Saltwater Grocery. I’ll no longer be able to tease him about it, though, as I’m now utterly obsessed with the place myself.

A fish shop in the Dublin suburb of Terenure is not where I’d have predicted that I’d eat one of the best meals I’ve had in years, but then that’s the joy of doing ...