Dining Out

Gillian Nelis: Exceptional dining and low-key luxury at Kathleen’s Kitchen

This casual dining spot at Carton House in Co Kildare offers several jaw-dropping spaces of understated luxury in which to dine, enjoy cocktails or have afternoon tea

Kathleen’s Kitchen at Carton House: a place of understated luxury. Picture: Barry Murphy

The 12-year-old is looking at me with the pure, unadulterated scepticism that only a pre-teen can truly muster.

“You’re joking,” he says, to my story of how several times a week in my childhood, a man from the local bakery would pull up in his van, slide back the door and reveal a selection of cakes, buns and loaves.

Chocolate eclairs, cream horns, coffee slices, cream doughnuts: these were the teatime treats of the 1980s, ...