Cathal McBride: How Chile’s exciting new crop could finally rescue its reputation

Perhaps there is something about getting older that aligns us to being more empathetic, and receptive to re-engaging with long-held views that require dismantling. It’s for this very reason that I wanted this week to challenge enduring perceptions about Chilean wines, specifically the negativity around them that I imagine is not uncommon.

It may be a view that is justifiable in some ways. The vast majority of Chile’s wines are mass-produced by a few large winemaking juggernauts, in a mechanically repetitive factory cycle of uninspiring, insipid drabness. They are overproduced and lacking in complexity: we’ve all been at that party at 2am, after the premium wines have been consumed and your better sense to go home has all but disappeared, when that bottle is wheeled out on a respirator.

But humour aside, this reputation is an unfair one, as evidenced by my deep dive into the country’s best, which offered incredible results.

For first-class made carménère, the signature grape of the country, the Casa Bauza Presumido 2018 (winespark.com, WineSpark price €18.65, traditional price €32) from the Maipo Valley is a prime example of what the new breed of winemakers are producing here. With an ethos of producing wines of character that represents the best of the terroir, it is an approach that won winemaker Natalia Poblete Chile’s Young Winemaker of the Year in 2018.

A blend of 89 per cent carménère, 6 per cent carignan and 5 per cent cabernet sauvignon, the result is a nose that is agricultural in the best sense of the word. Reminiscent of walking down a country road, it offers bramble bush, nettles, green pepper and plums. The palate is broad and expressive, smooth and elegant. This is serious carménère with notes of cocoa bean in an interesting spicy finish.

Also from Natalia Poblete, and along with friend Maria José Ortuzar, comes the Carigno Del Maule carignan 2018 (winespark.com, WineSpark price €20.73, traditional price €35). Maule in southern Chile has old vines of carignan and this represents some of the best. With a classic old world vibe (think Italian and French) this maintains an intriguingly complex nose with a touch of spice. The palate is rich and extended with a beguiling freshness, sensual but firm tannins and a sumptuous mouthfeel. Good structure, balance and acidity make this an exciting representation of Chile.

Elsewhere, the Emiliana Coyam, 2019, (O’Briens, obrienswine.ie, €26.95) is an organically made wine from the Colchagua Valley in central Chile and highly recommended. From a blend of syrah and carménère to the fore, it also contains cabernet, carignan, malbec, garnacha, tempranillo, mourvèdre and petit verdot. An intricate composition, the bouquet is also complex. Presenting an undercurrent of a just felled tree, the nose is primarily full of berry fruit, that leads down a chestnut path of vegetation and ends in cocoa bean richness. The palate is smooth with decadent fruit, firm but formed tannins, fine acidity, integrated oak and a creamy finish.

It’s not entirely about the reds, though, and the Montes “Outer Limits” Zapallar sauvignon blanc 2021 (Coopers Off Licence, Tipperary (coopersofflicence.com), World Wide Wines (worldwidewines.ie), Blackrock Cellar (blackrockcellar.com), Baggot Street Wines (baggotstreetwines.com), Ely Wine Store (elywinebar.ie), Wineonline.ie, €24.99) provides an interesting look at the characteristics that this terroir brings. Honeydew melon, pear and tropical fruits like pineapple enrich the nose with crisp freshness from lime citrus, and green pepper offering nuance. The palate is richer and more savoury than you might expect, but is enlivened with passionfruit. A bright acidity and a coastal minerality round out a distinctly fresh and aromatic wine.

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THREE TO TRY, BUY AND PUT BY

Pedro Parra ‘Vinista’ Itata Valley País, Chile, 2019 (ABV 12 per cent), 92

We often think of Chilean wine as being big and bold, so I wanted to present a lighter, fresher wine. Made from país, which is often used in blends, this is a wonderful summer red. With an almost pinot noir nose, crunchy red fruit of redcurrants, violet and floral aromas, vegetation and a delicate roundness, the palate has a textural body, raspberry and floral notes, medium acidity and a delicate finish. Give this a mild chill.

Available from Donnybrook Fair (donnybrookfair.ie), The Corkscrew (thecorkscrew.ie), Ely Wine Store (elywinebar.ie), Wineonline.ie, Green Man Wines (greenmanwines.ie), €25.99

Viu Manent ‘La Capilla’ Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard, Chile, 2018 (ABV 14 per cent), 93

From the Colchagua Valley, this single vineyard cabernet has an enrapturing nose with pure fruit of cassis, ripe plum, cherries, along with flecks of green pepper and cedar. The palate is juicy and luscious where rich, concentrated dark berry fruit underpin this wine. There is also a lightness and freshness present in a well-rounded structure with good length, robust tannins and a spicy finish. Perfect with BBQ meats.

Available from Redmonds of Ranelagh (redmonds.ie) and Baggot Street Wines (baggotstreetwines.com), €34.99

Montes ‘Purple Angel’ Colchagua, Chile, 2019 (ABV 14.5 per cent), 95

From vineyards in Apalta and Marchigüe, this blend of 92 per cent carménère and 8 per cent Petit Verdot, showcases the top end of their winemaking. The purest of deep blackberry fruit captivates the nose with a sumptuous scent of creamy vanilla, a hint of vegetation and woody herbs along with nutmeg spice. Richly defined fruit in a well-structured palate is aided by luscious tannins and a gentle yet lingering finish. Serve with rosemary roast lamb and roasted red meats.

Available from wineonline.ie, Ely Wine Store (elywinebar.ie), The Corkscrew (thecorkscrew.ie), Terroirs (terroirs.ie), Coopers Off Licence, Tipperary (coopersofflicence.com) and World Wide Wines (worldwidewines.ie), €92