Book extract: Saltwater in the Blood by Easkey Britton
In an extract from her forthcoming memoir, Saltwater in the Blood, Easkey Britton reflects on her early days as a professional surfer, existing in a climate that could often be inhospitable for female competitors
I’ve been drawn to different types of water bodies at different stages of my life. Each evoked a different energy or called to a different part of me: the rock pools of my childhood; the beach breaks of my competitive surfing years; the remote coasts and fury of big, wild seas as I chased bigger and bigger waves.
I cannot remember a time in my life before surfing. I’ve always felt at home...
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