24-hour party people: Embracing the chaos and colour of Cuba

A series of trips to the Caribbean island over a period of 20 years lays bare the incredible changes it has undergone in that time

Celebrating the post-pandemic reopening of the Gran Muthu Rainbow Hotel, Cuba’s first LGBT hotel, which was launched just before Covid hit. Picture: Getty

In the 20 years I have been visiting Cuba, leaving my home in Dublin often for months at a time, I have travelled far and wide on the island: from tourist hotspots to isolated backwaters.

I’ve worked, lived and studied in Cuba; partied hard; attended wild Stantería ceremonies; sat on golden beaches; attended the ballet; fallen in love. Perhaps most importantly, I have found in Cuba a second home in the world.

Cuba, and all ...