Sunday May 31, 2020

Wine: Our menu for mediocrity

Ireland should follow the French Appellation Contrôlée example and reward the finest in regional produce, rather than looking for mere minimum compliance, writes Tomás Clancy.

21st April, 2012
In France, tastings confer the final AC status. Photo: Getty

There are few more mouth-watering sights in Europe than the steely glint of the 60-foot high polished metal chicken on the motorway just south of Beaune in the heart of Burgundy (discovered by accident when I was trying to find the road to St Bernard's Abbey at Citeaux, the original founder of the iconic Clos de Vougeot vineyard).

The 60-foot statue is a monument to the revered Poulet de Bresse. In 1957, the region's chicken...

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